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CCMI in the News
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FTC's Crackdown on Cashmere
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The following article appeared in "Women’s Wear Daily", May 7, 2001
FTC'S CRACKDOWN ON CASHMERE
Byline: Joanna Ramey
WASHINGTON
-- Federal Trade Commission officials say more rigorous enforcement of cashmere
labeling rules could be forthcoming, although they aren't promising a widespread
inquiry into whether retailers are selling apparel mislabeled as to its cashmere
content.
Elaine Kolish, the FTC's associate director for enforcement,
told retailers, apparel importers and cashmere industry officials on Friday
the agency has begun "paying more attention" to complaints from cashmere
producers regarding mislabeling.
While noting the agency won't be quibbling
over slight differences between a garment's content and what's stated on
its label, Kolish said large deviations will prompt action. "If there's proof
of intentional deception, we won't ignore it," the FTC official stated.
Kolish
made her comments at a cashmere labeling forum at the FTC, an event aimed
at informing retailers and importers about the FTC's truth-in-labeling fiber
content rules. The forum was also called as a response to cashmere spinners'
and cashmere textile and apparel makers' long-time complaint the agency has
been lax acting against what they contend is rampant cashmere mislabeling.
Among the retailers represented in the audience were J.C. Penney, Saks Fifth
Avenue, Federated Department Stores, Lands' End, Polo Ralph Lauren and Costco
Wholesale.
"What has been missing in the cashmere industry," said Boris
Shlomm, president of Amicale Industries, "is a lack of support by the government
in enforcement." Cashmere textile and garment producers are worried their
high-end products' prestige is being undercut when, for example, a garment
labeled 100 percent cashmere actually contains 50 percent wool that has been
specially treated to feel like the extra soft fiber. There have also been
examples of garments labeled as containing, say, 50 percent cashmere when
the amount is actually closer to 10 percent.
"There's a tremendous incentive
to cheat," said Jim Coleman, president of New York-based Forte Cashmere Co.
He cited China -- where Kashmir goats are plentiful -- as one place where
significantly less expensive wool and yak are often blended with cashmere
and where, in many cases, the presence of the other fibers either is underreported
or isn't disclosed at all.
Coleman and other speakers urged retailers
and importers to be sure yarns, fabrics and the final cashmere product are
tested for their content.
Under the 1939 Wool Products Labeling Act,
anything made from animal hair must be labeled to reflect the fiber content.
Retailers, manufacturers and distributors are to be held accountable for
violations and can be fined $11,000 for each infraction -- but there haven't
been any reported violations of the act involving cashmere in about 30 years.
Meanwhile, the cashmere industry has undertaken its own policing of the marketplace.
The Boston-based Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute routinely
surveys stores in the U.S. and parts of Europe and buys garments to test
for content. The group's president, Karl Spilhaus, said the organization
usually notifies between 45 and 60 retailers a year about mislabeling.
For
his part, David DaPonte, L.L. Bean's manager of product and research, in
a presentation, warned retailers about falling prey to unscrupulous suppliers.
Stores shouldn't just test cashmere garments after they arrive, he advised.
"If you're looking at a garment and starting to test it, you're too late,"
he added.
Copyright © 2001 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
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